The Honest Truth About Driving Iceland’s Ring Road in Winter, and Tips on How To Navigate It
Iceland had been on my bucket list for as long as I can remember. I have always wanted to go and had planned to just before lockdown, so when I decided I wanted to surprise my kids and take them on Boxing Day to explore for a week, I could not wait to start planning! A lot of people do Iceland in 2-3 nights, which is totally do-able, especially if staying in Rekyjavik. I, of course, had to be extra and really wanted to make the most of this visit and decided to do a full week, but move around and travel to different places. With this in mind, my natural thought was to hire a car.
I am not new to driving a car abroad, I have done it in the US, and lots of European countries so I didn’t really stop to think what this would be like. I wanted to freedom that comes with it and the chance to get out of the city (and find the Northern Lights!) without being stuck to certain times with tours. However, the Icelandic winter had other plans. Plans that includes gripping the steering wheel fiercely whilst driving on a road with a drop each side whilst a literal blizzard rolls in.
The 4 hours of daylight factor
In December, you only get sunlight from roughly 11am to 3.30pm, meaning you are driving around in the dark a lot. Normally, this would not be such an issue but with the roads being slippy and the weather being what it is, this definitely adds an element of pressure to any trip outside this window.
The Tip: You need to plan your bigger drives for the dark and your sightseeing for the small window of light. Realistically, you'll be doing about 70% of your driving in pitch blackness on unlit roads. Make sure to plan your trips with this in mind!
Weather alerts are not suggestions
It amazed me how quickly the weather can change in Iceland. I remember being in the car park for the Blue Lagoon and the sky was clear and by the time I had the kids loaded into the car, it had became a white out.
The Tip: You need to be checking the weather and road sites not just every morning, but before you start any journey. If the road is marked yellow or orange, it is not just tricky, it is a risk.
For weather, use vedur.is
For road conditions, use road.is
The car: do not skimp
You may see some smaller cars for a fraction of the price of a 4x4, but there is a reason for this. Do not take the risk! A sturdy 4x4 with studded tires is the only way to go for peace of mind.
The Tip: The wind in Iceland is no joke! Many times I opened the car door to have it blown out of my hands! Make sure to exit the car with caution - and use two hands to hold it open!
The Hidden Stress of "Black Ice"
This was the most nerve-wracking part of driving for me. Black ice is so sneaky; the road looks perfectly fine (just a bit wet or shiny) but in reality, it’s a skating rink. There were moments when the car felt like it was floating rather than driving, and even at low speeds, it can catch you off guard.
The Tip: Forget the speed limit signs; they are for perfect conditions, not December in Iceland! Drive slower than you think you need to, especially on bridges or in shadowed areas where the ice lingers. Don’t be pressured by the locals flying past you - let them go! Your only job is to get to the next stop safely.
Was it worth it?
For me, yes, it was worth it as we got to stay in places we would not have been able to without the car, and we would have missed out on sites we saw which were just incredible. Would I do it again? No! And for anyone who has asked me about Iceland when planning it, I always advise against it! There are so many trips going that you are more than able to get around and see everything you want without driving, it just might not be on your timeframe!
